Things to do
Places to visit
Kardamyli. The old town is up on the left as you drive in. It is a very ancient place, first mentioned by Homer in the Iliad as one of the seven ‘cities’ offered to Achilles by Agamemnon to persuade him to leave his tent. It has a typical Maniot tower and courtyard with a church in it. Worth paying for a quick look round inside as it is towers like this that made the Mani what it was.
Agios Nikolaos is a charming little fishing port about 15 minutes south of Kardamyli. Good bars and restaurants and, if you drive further down the coastline (following the sea-front road south out of the village) you come to some nice beaches and the two charming little ports of Agios Dimitrios and Trachila.
Kastania (means ‘sweet chestnut’) is a lovely mountain village above Stoupa, about 30 minutes drive from Kardamili, that has many Byzantine churches in it. The best is Agios Petros at the top which has truly stunning frescoes. There is also the newly-restored Dourakis Tower and a good, very basic and friendly taverna in the village square. tel: 0030 27210 77104/ 0030 6972 884395 Giannis and Georgia).
Areopolis is about 50 minutes to the south of Kardamyli. Its name means ‘city of war’, so called because it provided the stage for the gathering of 2,000 Maniots to swear ‘Death or Victory!’ and so kick off The Greek War of Independence. It is a charming little town with good tavernas, and is the gateway to the Deep Mani, the last forty miles of the Mani peninsula which is wildly beautiful and famous for its endless towers. Just before it, you pass the charming little port of Limeni where there is a line of good tavernas with lovely views over the sea. Great place to stop for lunch.
Voidokilia Lagoon is a beautiful, perfectly circular lagoon on the west coast of Messinia about 2 hours drive away, just north of Pylos. Perfect golden sand. Legend has it it is where Telemachus arrived to visit King Nestor to get news of his father Odysseus. A perfect day’s expedition, especially if you climb up to Nestor’s Cave above the far end of the beach (15 min walk max) where legend has it the baby Hermes hid the cattle he had stolen from Apollo.
Nestor’s Palace, next to the Voidokilia lagoon, the best-preserved Mycenaean Archaeological site in Greece, with great views out to Navarino Bay and the lagoon. Built c 1300 BC, it is well signed, with a good short film in the visitor’s centre showing what it would have looked like in all its glory. It is also under-cover so perfect for inclement weather.
Navarino Bay holds a special place in Greek history. It is where the Spartans were first defeated and where the Greeks won their independence from the Ottoman Turks after the naval battle of 20th October 1827. A lovely way to see it is via lunch in one of the many good tavernas lining the front of Gialova. Or you can visit the pretty town of Pylos down the coast, built by the French after the battle of Navarino.
Mystras, is two hours north of Kardamyli (via motorway or through mountains- slightly longer) and is the jewel of the Peloponnese. It is a perfect Byzantine city built on a hill just outside Sparta and was the last thing to fall to the Turks in 1460, after 2,000 years of Greco-Roman Empire. Full of frescoed churches, palaces and monasteries (one with three nuns still in it) it is a wonderful place to spend a day.
Messene is about 1.5 hours from Kardamyli, past Kalamata airport, by-passing the horrible new town of Messene and up to one of the most beautiful sites imaginable. It is the best-preserved Hellenistic city site in Greece.
Activities
Walking. The trails above Kardamyli are colour-coded, both on the trails and on the local Exo Mani map, which you can buy at the festival bookshop, Fotini’s supermarket or 2407 hiking shop in the high street, If you want to hire a guide, Giannis at 2407 shop is a good English speaker. Tel: 0030 27210 73752
Biking. Giannis at 2407 shop also rents bikes, electric and otherwise.
Boat Trip. You can take out a very comfy motor boat from Kardamili through ManiEscape (from €440 for four hours for 4 passengers plus skipper, 550 euros for 4 hours for 9 passengers plus skipper). Tel 0030 6981 175006. Fantastic half-day is to motor down to lovely Limeni for lunch at Takis, a wonderful fish taverna on the waterfront (tel:0030 27330 51327), then swim at hidden pool on way back. Driver will know.
Deep Mani Tour takes about an hour and a half round-trip. Start from Areopolis, go down the west coast via Kita where there are some great pyrgi (towers) and on down to Vathia which is nothing but towers and deserted. On down to Cape Tainaron and Porto Kayo, then up the East Coast back to Areopolis, stopping off for a swim at Scutari beach.
Diros Caves. These are 15 minutes beyond Areopolis and some of the most beautiful and dramatic formations of stalactites and stalagmites, formed millions of years ago, in Europe. It involves a 40-minute boat ride through illuminated caves and is completely wonderful. Telephone: +30 27330 52222 (Cave), +30 27330 52223 (Neolithic Museum). Tickets: Full: €12, Reduced: €7. Open: Monday – Sunday: 10:00-18:00
Yoga and Meditation. Zen Rocks, 20 minutes from Kardamyli, is a peaceful retreat surrounded by olive groves and amazing views over the sea, offering yoga, pilates and massages with an on-site café with delicious, home made food. On site accommodation available (see where to stay section).
Diving and Yoga: Zen Rocks are running a special retreat combing Freediving and Yoga the week before the festival. The Deep Blue Retreat will run from September 23rd – 29th. Aimed at all levels of experience in diving and yoga from absolute beginners upwards, led by inspirational Helge Lovskar, Norwegian diving champion and international teacher together with Vivi Letsou, Greece’s leading yoga and meditation teacher. It should be a really transformational and exciting week exploring the beautiful ocean and landscapes of the Mani and learning skills to clear your mind.
For further information:
Tel: +30 6986 282789 Email: contact@zenrocksmani.com
or visit https://www.zenrocksmani.com/
Athens and beyond – Guided tour
If you have time before or after the festival and are looking for a guide, Joshua Barley is an expert in Greek local culture, music, history, botany and literature and can arrange a personalised tour of Athens or beyond. He is inspirational and fun and will tailor make a few days for you or a group.
Visit: www.joshuabarley.com
Shopping
Food: There are three supermarkets in Kardamyli and a very big one on the main road at Stoupa.
Wine: Greek wine is an undiscovered treat. The best reds come from Nemea (North Peloponnese) and Macedonia. There is a good wine shop in Kardamyli called Psaltiras, run by Nikos Psaltiras, with an excellent selection of good Greek wine. Tel 0030 694 2049832.
Banks: There are 3 ATM’s in Kardamyli: outside the last supermarket in Kalamata direction and two in the high street.
Clothes etc: Shops are open 10.00 – 14.00 and 17.00 -20.00. There is a good selection of shops selling pottery, gifts, clothes, wine and olive oil. Anokhi at the far end on the left is very good for womens clothes and Idira Glass Studio, which is down the cobbled lane toward the sea at the end of the high street, has a wonderful range of decorative gifts.
Find out more about the area
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